Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Just a Zip, Skip, and a Jump through Lao

We are back in Bangkok after an amazing time in Lao. We crossed the border late on the 17th and then looked back at Thailand and mused, "Was that a border??". If it hadn't been for the stamp in our passport, the simple checkpoint, and a new way to say "hello" we almost could have missed it by blinking.

We spent a day in the small border town where our Zipline/Treehouse adventure called the Gibbon Experience departed from before setting off for the jungle. That gave us just enough time to buy our slow-boat tickets down the Mekong and get sweet talked out of about $8 by a cheeky novice monk. Suffice it to say we were taken in by an amiable 'blessings for cash' scheme on the top of a small hill overlooking the river and have the bracelet to prove it.

The Mojitos were strong on the banks of the Mekong the night before the Jungle adventure. Also, Beer Lao is a loveable lager with a minimal hangover factor. It is not to be confused with the beer/mild-laxative-cum-headache-in-a-bottle that is Thailand's Chang.

We set off for the Bokeo National Park (read: "Jungle") in the back of a pick-up on December 19th and were already feeling the trek setting in as we careened around dusty turns and sped by naked kids playing along the road as we mad. "Feeling the trek setting in" is improvised slang for "trying to keep breakfast down amidst back road motion sickness". That abated as we started our hike into the Jungle and began to hear the birds heralding our arrival. We were in a group of 8 total, with 2 guides from local refugee villages.

After a brief lunch, we found ourselves strapping on climbing harnesses and clipping onto 300 foot long zip lines across lush gaping valleys dropping away hundreds of feet below. I'm envious that birds are lighter and more self-determined in their flight patterns, but we have now tasted what they must feel. Seeing trees from just above their top boggles the mind.

We spent the next couple days zipping from tree house to treehouse and across valleys that took the breath away. We even capped the experience off in our own private honeymoon treehouse above a small waterfall some 250 feet below. As we can now attest, sunsets are best enjoyed just above the canopy. We even snuck out that night to dangle from the middle of a zip cable to watch the stars. There's not much background light in the middle of Northern Lao.

Soon after the Gibbon experience we found ourselves on a long boat with about 50 other people, cruising down the Mekong. We stuck together with the friends we made at the Gibbon Experience and had an excellent two days puttering down the Mekong. The river is mostly brown with soil run-off and boasts amazing rock formations and swirling currents the whole way.

After the two day journey we arrived in Luang Prabang just before Christmas. We splurged a bit on a nice hotel room in a converted colonial villa for Christmas and celebrated with our new friends from Belgium, Germany, and England. It was tough for both of us in different ways to be apart from our shared families on Christmas. We look forward to many more in the years ahead nestled in close with those we love.

We explored Bhuddist temples (of which Luang Prabang has more than its fair share, and duly got World Heritage Site status for) for a few days. One of our favorites was at the top of a snaking set of 500 or so stairs on top of the town's highest hill. Freeman also had one of his best short runs in ages.

Opting not to take another vehicle through the Lao hills, we flew back to Thailand via Vientiane. We had a Korean Barbecue/Japanese DIY Soup dinner that was quite a site to behold in Vientiane. This consisted of a basket of hot coals being placed under the center of the table, and the moated grill being placed over it. Then meats, broth, and veggies were brought and we dunked and grilled to our hearts content.

Now we have landed back in Bangkok to gear up for New Year's Eve and enjoy all that this excellent city has to offer, yet again.

A belated Merry Christmas to all and to all a good New Year,
From Jo and Free